Injectables
Russian Lips in Brooklyn, NY
A lip filler technique that builds height and shape rather than pushing the lip forward. $399 per treatment.
What It Does
Height and shape, not projection.
The Russian technique is a way of placing lip filler, not a different product. Instead of running filler along the lip in long horizontal threads, it is placed in a series of small vertical injections that start at the edge of the lip and work inward toward the wet border.
Building the lip that way lifts the body of the lip upward and defines the cupid’s bow, rather than adding bulk to the front. From the side the lip stays close to the face. From the front it looks fuller and more lifted, with a flatter, more defined shape.
It takes longer than a standard lip treatment because there are many more injection points, and it swells more in the first few days for the same reason. It is not the right technique for every lip — thin, heavily scarred or previously overfilled lips often do better with something else, and Phoebe will tell you at the consultation if that is the case.
What we shape
Lip height
The main reason people ask for this technique. Vertical placement lifts the free edge of the lip so more of it shows, without adding forward projection.
$399 per treatmentCupid’s bow
The two peaks of the upper lip are defined individually, which is what gives the shape its recognisable heart outline.
IncludedLip border
A crisp edge along the vermillion border. Useful where the border has softened with age and lipstick has started to travel.
IncludedCorner support
Small amounts at the corners to lift a mouth that turns down at rest. Assessed case by case, not done routinely.
IncludedAsymmetry
Most lips are uneven. Because the lip is built point by point, the two halves can be treated to different depths in the same session.
IncludedDissolving first
If you have existing filler sitting in the wrong plane, it usually has to be dissolved and given time to settle before this technique will work. Assessed and priced at consultation.
By consultationWe use hyaluronic acid lip fillers with lidocaine. Hyaluronic acid can be dissolved if you are unhappy with the result — one of the reasons we work with it.
Pricing
What it costs
- Russian lipsFull treatment, one session$399
- Standard lip fillerIf the Russian technique is not right for your lip$399
- Filler dissolvingWhere existing filler has to come out firstBy consultation
One price, whatever the technique takes. If a second visit would give a better result than forcing it into one, we will say so — and price it before you commit.
The Visit
What to expect
Consultation
We look at your lip at rest and smiling, check what filler is already there, and agree whether this technique suits your anatomy. Around 30 minutes.
Treatment
Numbing cream first, then a series of small vertical injections along the lip. Allow about an hour — it is a slower treatment than standard lip filler.
Afterwards
Expect significant swelling for two to three days — more than with standard filler. We review at two weeks, once the shape has settled.
Before & After
How to prepare, and what to do after
Lips swell more than any other area, and this technique swells more than most. Following these makes a real difference to how the first week goes.
Before your visit
- Tell us if you get cold sores. Any lip treatment can trigger an outbreak, and we may want to treat that first.
- If your doctor is happy for you to pause them, stop aspirin, fish oil and high‑dose vitamin E for about a week. Never stop prescribed blood thinners without asking the doctor who prescribed them.
- Skip alcohol for 24 hours — it is the single biggest cause of avoidable bruising.
- Come with a clean mouth and no lip product.
- Leave at least three weeks before a wedding, holiday or anything photographed. Two is enough for most filler; lips done this way need longer.
After your treatment
- Do not massage, press or rub the lip for 24 hours unless we have shown you how.
- Stay upright for four hours and sleep on your back, propped up, the first night.
- No gym, sauna, steam room or hot yoga for 24 to 48 hours.
- Day two is the worst day for swelling. Do not judge the shape before two weeks — almost nobody looks like the final result on day three.
- Contact us straight away if you have blanching or whitening of the skin, pain that is getting worse rather than better, or any change in your vision.
General guidance only. The instructions Phoebe gives you at your appointment take precedence over anything on this page.
Questions
Common questions
What makes Russian lips different from normal lip filler?
The product is the same. The difference is placement. Standard lip filler is usually laid horizontally along the lip, which adds volume forward. The Russian technique uses many small vertical injections working from the border inward, which lifts the lip upward instead. The result is more height and a sharper cupid’s bow, with less projection when seen from the side.
Will my lips look fake?
That is a question of how much is placed, not which technique is used. We treat conservatively and stage larger changes across more than one visit, because it is easy to add and slow to take away. If you want a dramatic change in a single sitting, we are probably not the right practice for you.
Does it hurt more?
There are more injection points than a standard lip treatment, so there is more to get through. Numbing cream is applied first and the fillers we use contain a local anaesthetic. Most people describe it as uncomfortable rather than painful, and the lip is the most sensitive area we treat.
How long is the swelling?
More than with standard filler. Expect noticeable swelling for two to three days, peaking on day two, and a smaller amount for up to a week. The final shape is not visible until around two weeks, which is when we review.
How long does it last?
Generally somewhere between six months and a year. Lips move constantly, so they break filler down faster than structural areas like cheeks. How quickly it goes varies a lot between people.
Can I have this if I already have lip filler?
Sometimes. It depends on how much is there and what plane it sits in. Old filler sitting in the wrong layer will fight the shape we are trying to build, and in that case we would usually dissolve it first and let the lip settle before treating. We assess that in person — it is not something we can judge from a photograph.
Can it be reversed?
Yes. Hyaluronic acid filler can be dissolved with an enzyme if there is a problem or if you simply do not like the result.
Who should not have this?
Lip filler is not suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding, with an active cold sore or skin infection in the area, or with certain autoimmune conditions and allergies. We take a full history at the consultation and will tell you if it is not appropriate.
Next Step
Book a lip consultation
Bring photographs of the shape you like, and of your own lips a few years ago if you have them. Both are useful, for different reasons.